Setting out from Astorga this morning, our group stopped in front of the city’s beautiful Gothic Cathedral for a picture before heading to the city limits (see: duckling line like in Leon) to visit the Hermitage of Ecce Homo (Latin for “Behold the man” which Pontius Pilate declare of Christ as he tried to save him from condemnation). 
This small chapel is said to have been the site of a Camino miracle after a small boy once fell into a well used by pilgrims to drink on the Way. His mother could not get him out and so prayed for his rescue. Amazingly, the water level rose until he was returned to her!
Our pilgrims stopped to pray and to get a briefing on the day before hitting the trail for what would be a warm walk of about 12 miles, most of which covered secluded natural trails with long stretches between tiny villages. This walk also marks the shift from the Meseta (large flat plains of Leon and central Spain) to the region of Galicia (where Santiago is)… But first we have to cross the mountains!
Each small town along our journey today had it’s own character- from Cowboy themed lunch spots to street sweepers in a village of 40 to a Benedictine monastery run by German monks! Our pilgrims took in the changing landscape and the graces of quiet on the much secluded trail.
We also marveled at the changing landscape. The wind turbines far upon the distant mountains when we began our day’s walk were soon on the same level as us as we gradually ascended.
Pilgrims sought out shade and popsicles to beat the heat and as we gathered the graces at dinner tonight, we reflected on how the “valleys” of our days can offer their own gifts even as they challenge us. One student even sought me out after dinner (having gone on about the difficulty with Spanish food beforehand) to tell me that the Garlic Soup and Eggs Picadillo was the best meal she’d had yet!
We continue to grow and grapple with the press of the Camino. Graces abound if we can let ourselves see them. We pray for gratitude in all things and look forward tomorrow to casting our burdens at the foot of the Iron Cross before descending the mountain toward whatever the Camino ahead holds for us!