Author: sjspwellesley

Although we didn’t leave Portomarín by the same staircase we entered by, our first step on the road out of the city was a wooded trail and steep incline that took nearly 25 minutes to clear. Stretch as we may before we departed, this hill push our legs to warm up as we set out on our nearly 17 mile journey today.

After clearing the first hill, we settled into the routine of rolling hills similar to yesterday’s walk. Today, however, the towns were more spaced out (reminiscent of the layout of days 1-5 of walking, but much greener) and water was more sparse with fewer fountains along the way. Luckily, we packed water in preparation and temperatures in the 70s kept us cool as we journeyed…

Sometimes the spiritual life can feel like work. As we said at the start of this retreat, the Camino is spiritual exercise. Work however does not preclude Wonder.  

Truly, if we are doing our spiritual work we find in ourselves an awakened sense of wonder. We discover that we don’t know everything, we can’t do everything, and we aren’t in charge (spiritually speaking) of anything. God is in control and, as the Camino instructs us time and again, we walk with God.

Wonder and awe are critical to walking with God. The One who created us made us to marvel at creation, to tend to it, and to, ultimately, find the signs of our Creator in it. Just think for a second at the mystery of our being… You are here right now, living a life only you can live and seeing the world as only you can see it. How amazing is that??

Getting ready this morning, I marveled at the condition of my shoes (maybe it was all that talk of blisters yesterday?) And noted the plume of dust that rose into the air as I untied my laces. With the forecast of rain throughout today’s walk, I knew that the plume would not be there tonight and I prayed that the moisture would somehow steer clear of my socks on our 14 miles journey.

Each pilgrim prepared for the reality of rain differently. Some covered their packs before we even left the hotel. Others layered their socks, while others put “body glide” or Vaseline on their feet to avoid the effects of excess moisture. You can imagine what interesting conversation this made for over breakfast!

Today’s journey departs from Sarria, the most popular starting point for the Camino de Santiago. Its popularity comes not from its beauty or accommodations but from its proximity to Santiago de Compostela, the end of our pilgrimage. In fact, Sarria is precisely 114 km (70.8 miles) from Santiago de Compostela, a distinction that marks the minimum distance one can travel if they wish to earn an official Compostela pilgrimage certificate, indicating they completed the journey. 

Ten days into our pilgrimage in everyday life, this minimum distance invites us to consider the quality of our engagement so far. Have we set time aside each day to prayerfully reflect with God? Has the grace we initially asked for when we set out become more apparent in our lives or has it transformed into a different grace that we might be more in need of? 

Traveling from Tricastela to Sarria today, our group covered some 12 miles over the winding hills of Galicia. “Winding” we’ve found means different things on different days, depending on the landscape and on the condition of our bodies as mileage adds up!

Today “winding” meant ups and downs, with some breathtaking heights and inclines that literally took your breath away. Still, we persevere! Every up promises a down, and the downs offered highlights too, traversing swaths of woodland trails…

The fear of every pilgrim is the development of blisters along the Camino. After such a long journey yesterday, our feet are surely sore. Soreness, though, is different from blisters. Soreness reminds us that we’ve worked our muscles (remember Day 3’s reflection on our bodies?) 

Blisters, on the other hand, are a sign of agitation and friction. They develop when our shoes don’t fit right, when there’s added moisture, or when repetitive motion causes irritation. The first sign of a blister is a “hot spot” as the skin begins to feel wear and signals that the protection it offers is being weakened. 

In the spiritual life, there are numerous things that can cause blisters…

For the last week, our group has walked through the Castilla y Leon region of Spain… that is until today, when we crossed into Galicia. This region is home to Santiago de Compostela, our final destination, and also has a markedly different landscape, culture, and even its own language.

Reflecting a Celtic influence, we heard the Galician gaita (bagpipes) ring out as we entered the town of O Cebreiro. Except for the stifling heat, one might easily think they’d crossed the ridge and somehow landed in Ireland. Celtic knots adorn houses, cowbells jingle, and the mountainsides are a patchwork of green and yellow fields.

Within the town, we visited the Church of Santa María, which is run by a Franciscan priests. In some ways visiting churches on El Camino can feel like a sport unto itself. Each church offers a unique stamp for the pilgrim’s passport (which we must have stamped at least twice a day). Yet, on the doorway of St. Mary’s a simple sign reads: “On the Camino you can collect stamps, but only here can you enjoy a place like this. Behold. Feel His peace. Engrave this seal in your heart. ¡Buen Camino!”

Today is likely the hardest day of walking for me and my group, so some extra prayers for strength, endurance, and peace would be much appreciated. (I’ll let you know if I feel more like an “expert” after 18 miles on treacherous terrain!)

As my group and I walk, we are using trekking poles. Imagine me cascading through the streets of Boston (and down the brook path in Wellesley) with mine as I trained this winter and spring (talk about humility in action!) At first, these poles might seem silly, like a superfluous addition to the journey. (What was that we said about not carrying extra things?!?)

fter watching Team Spain dominate in their World Cup match against Saudi Arabia (and after walking upwards of 16 miles in the blazing sun) we rested easy in Villafranca del Bierzo last night before setting out early again this morning to try to beat the heat.

Luckily the first two-thirds of our journey was in the valleys of the mountains on the way to Las Herrerías de Valcar. While this meant we had shade for a good portion of the walk (which helped a little with the sun and overwhelming humidity), it also meant the majority of our walk was along roads, which can get a little monotonous. To help motivate one another, we stuck together as a group as we walked the way today, taking steady inclines and bouts of tough mental terrain together…