Getting ready this morning, I marveled at the condition of my shoes (maybe it was all that talk of blisters yesterday?) And noted the plume of dust that rose into the air as I untied my laces. With the forecast of rain throughout today’s walk, I knew that the plume would not be there tonight and I prayed that the moisture would somehow steer clear of my socks on our 14 miles journey.
Each pilgrim prepared for the reality of rain differently. Some covered their packs before we even left the hotel. Others layered their socks, while others put “body glide” or Vaseline on their feet to avoid the effects of excess moisture. You can imagine what interesting conversation this made for over breakfast!
Departing Sarria through the old city, we ascended a three block long/high staircase before exiting the city to the west and setting out into mountain woodlands where we spent most of our day.
With so many more pilgrims on the Way today versus every day before, our group divided by pace and we allowed students to move freely between strategically placed chaperones. The group that fell in with me was game to tackle the inclined ahead of us all while mixing quiet and chatter with a pace that allowed us to enjoy the scenery and absorb our movements (both interior and exterior).
Much of our walk was through forest and tree cover. As one adult affectionately said, “it’s like we’re in Sherwood Forrest!” Lacking Robin Hood and his merry men, we shared our merry Mount cheer with the many new pilgrims we encountered (see: passed) by sharing a chipper “buen Camino!” with them as they tried to figure out the rhythm of the walk and how to use trekking poles on their first day of walking. If nothing else, this gave us perspective on how long we’ve been on this journey and the many things we’ve learned along the way. Now on Day 9 of walking, we know that snacks give you energy you need between towns (don’t eat a bulkie meal), that Spanish time makes you slow down, and that some of the best sights are found when your eyes (and heart) wander where your feet take you.
Amid moss-covered stone walls, trails designed to courier precipitation, iconic small narrow granery buildings called hórreos, and the sights and smells of many dairy farms in the small towns we passed through (“Does anyone else smell the flower shop up ahead? Let’s just pretend!”), we made our way.
In time, the rain did find us, though, it was not as bad as it could have been and our spirits weren’t dampened by some drizzle. Happily, we got to use the ponchos and rain jackets we’ve been carrying for more than a week and the breeze that I feel like I was praying for constantly during the heat wave finally arrived. Thank God!
A little over halfway through today’s walk we came upon the 100km mile marker, signifying the distance left to Santiago. A palpable joy filled or group as we counted down to this point. When we began walking in Leon, markers read more than 330km- a number that felt almost insurmountable. To see (and touch) the 100km marker felt like a sign that we might actually be able to do this thing and acted as a reminder if how much we have already done.
As they say on the Camino (and we saw on today’s route (spelled out in yarn)): “Ultreia et Suseia! Deus adjuva nos!” (Onward & Upward! God help us!)
This phrase has largely been replaced by “buen Camino” but it’s much older, dating back to the original guide to the Camino, the Codex Calixtino from the 12th century. At its heart, this phrase reminds us that we are never alone. Something greater is with us in this journey. We must rise to greet it and let it guide us. As i taught our students as I translated graffiti in French for them yesterday “Dieu, c’est l’amour.” That is to say, God is love. That’s what we carry with us and that is what should guide our every step.
Walking across the dammed river of Portomarín, we came upon our final incline of the day, the steps of the city. With love in our hearts, we ascended once again. Letting love carry us, we found the Church of St. Nicholas in the main square. The only remnant of the original city, this church was transported brick by brick up the hill in the 1950’s to allow the dam to be built. Uttering a prayer of thanksgiving, we have thanks for the day and look forward to where Love will lead us tomorrow.
