For the last week, our group has walked through the Castilla y Leon region of Spain… that is until today, when we crossed into Galicia. This region is home to Santiago de Compostela, our final destination, and also has a markedly different landscape, culture, and even its own language.
Reflecting a Celtic influence, we heard the Galician gaita (bagpipes) ring out as we entered the town of O Cebreiro. Except for the stifling heat, one might easily think they’d crossed the ridge and somehow landed in Ireland. Celtic knots adorn houses, cowbells jingle, and the mountainsides are a patchwork of green and yellow fields.
Within the town, we visited the Church of Santa María, which is run by a Franciscan priests. In some ways visiting churches on El Camino can feel like a sport unto itself. Each church offers a unique stamp for the pilgrim’s passport (which we must have stamped at least twice a day). Yet, on the doorway of St. Mary’s a simple sign reads: “On the Camino you can collect stamps, but only here can you enjoy a place like this. Behold. Feel His peace. Engrave this seal in your heart. ¡Buen Camino!”
This simple reminder that what we seek is far greater than any stamp or any amount of steps is a good and important one. We walk by faith and we must learn to see with eyes of faith and to allow the One who walks with us to leave an indelible mark on us. Then we will know peace. Then we will know what it truly means to be at home in God’s presence no matter where we go.
From O Cebreiro, we traversed a series of ups and downs as we entered into Galicia. No town was more than 40 minutes apart, with many “towns” being just a few houses grouped around a market, hostel, or café. Moving through these areas we rested by fountains, finding locals’ clean laundry in them as we soaked our hands in the cold spring water.
We also came upon the Pilgrims’ Monument high in the mountains. Here St. James, the pilgrim, holds his hat on as he presses onward. “Ultreia!” as the pelegrinos say- Onward!
Our ascent continued most of the day, a key read on why today’s walk was rated “expert.” Add to that the heat wave (which will hopefully break after tomorrow) and our group muscled on through this stage of our journey. Fatigue is real as we close the first week, but as I reminded students today at dinner: “Each day the landscape changes. Each day our story changes. And each day we are invited into other people’s stories in new and wonderful ways. Ask curious questions and pay attention to God’s answers.”
Standing with my feet in the icy water of the Oribio River this afternoon, cooling down and renewing my feet for the days ahead I’m reminded that relief comes in many forms. We rest in the embrace of God. We hope to embrace others the same way. And we pray that they may return that relief with love and grace… refreshing the soul and renewing our spirits to journey onward each new day.
